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With the
New-Year and thoughts turning to plans for 2012, we reflect happily on another
successful year of camper-travels during 2011, this time in
the three Baltic Republics of Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia. This 4
month trip again served to justify the objectives
of our chosen travelling life-style:
the opportunity to broaden our knowledge of hitherto unknown
places; the pretext for researching the history, language
and culture of different peoples; most importantly the
privilege of meeting and befriending so many interesting
folk during our travels; and finally, sharing our hard-won
experiences with fellow-travellers through the medium of our
web site. |
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Highlights of
our 2011 travelling ventures included:
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LITHUANIA:

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-
walking the sand-cliffs of the Neringa Curonian Sandspit
on the Western Lithuanian
Baltic coastline
- walking the ground at sites of yet more WW2
atrocities committed by Germans and their
Lithuanian collaborators at the Kaunas Ninth Fort and the killing pits
in
the
Paneriai forests near Vilnius
- the privilege of the VIP welcome received
during our visit to the Lithuanian
Parliament,
the Seimas, in Vilnius
- peaceful evenings in camp watching the sun
setting across the lakes of
Eastern Lithuania
- pine woodland walks above the lakes of Auktaitija
National Park
- the hospitality shown to us at our visit to
Ignalina nuclear power station,
enabling an
understanding of the social, political and economic

consequences for Lithuania
of the EU-enforced closure of the plant which had
previously produced
75% of the
country's energy needs
- appreciating the religious and nationalistic
significance of the iauliai Hill of Crosses
for Lithuanians
- the spine-chilling sensation of standing at
the former Soviet Cold War
missile-silo base
deep in the forests of Ploktinė in the emaitija National Park
   
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LATVIA:

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-
wandering among the decaying apartment
blocks of the former Soviet naval base
of Karosta near Liepāja with the gilded onion-domes and mosaic faįade
of its
Orthodox Cathedral
- taking the ferry-boat ride around the
docklands and oil terminals of Ventspils harbour
past its ranks of dock-yard cranes
- clambering around the superstructure of
the former Soviet electronic eavesdropping
radio-telescope at Irbene on the Kolka Baltic coast
- visiting the now almost deserted Liv
fishing villages along the North Kurzeme
coastline,
and Cape Kolka the northernmost tip of the Latvian coastline
- sharing the celebration at Sabile's annual
wine festival, home to the world's most
northerly vineyard
- standing in the plenary chamber of Saeima
during our visit to the Latvian Parliament in Rīga

- touring Rīga's restored art nouveau
architectural treasures and viewing the city's
magnificent
skyline from the tower of St Peter's Church
-
standing at the memorial to Salaspils WW2
concentration camp near to Rīga
- travelling along the valley of the Daugava
River, for centuries Latvia's main transport
corridor, homeland of Latvia's heroic hero Lačplēsis now marred by
huge hydro-electric dams
- walking the streets of Latvia's second city
Daugavpils with its predominantly
Russian population
driving down the rural back lanes of
Latgale, Latvia's eastern province, past remote
farmsteads, along the borderlands of Belarus and the Russian Federation
- travelling the Gulbene~Alūksne narrow
gauge railway through the unending forest and
all the isolated hamlets between the 2 North Latvian towns
- descending into the grotesque Cold War
top-secret underground bunker-complex at Ligatne, built as a control centre
for Soviet-Latvia in the event of nuclear war
- exploring the forest paths and medieval
castles of the Gauja National Park
   
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ESTONIA:

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-
standing
on the rim of the 5,500 year old meteorite crater at Kaali and seeing the group of post-windmills at Angla
on the island of Saaremaa
- gazing out across the Baltic on the
northern coast of Hiiumaa island by the memorial to the ferry Estonia
sunk by storms here in 1993
- standing in the plenary chamber of the Riigikogu,
the Estonian Parliament, in Tallinn
during our visit to Toompea Castle
- looking out across the medieval town walls
and roof-tops of Tallinn
-
standing
on the
grassy slopes of Tallinn's Song Festival
Grounds and sensing
the emotive appeal for Estonians of this special place
- understanding the economic importance for
Estonia of
the oil shale industry with visits to the Kohtla-Nõmme mining museum and the
refineries of Kohtla-Järve
- seeing the Stalinist era architecture at
the former Soviet uranium processing town of Sillamäe
-
looking from the tower of Narva Castle over the Freedom Bridge Russian
frontier and Russian Ivangorad Fortress at the border town of Narva

- visiting the Russian Orthodox Old
Believers' villages and looking out across sea-like
breadth of Lake Peipsi
- nervously driving through the Saatse
Boot salient of Russian territory projecting into Estonia's far SE
corner, the land of Setumaa
- listening to the eerie polyphonic chanting
of a Setu women's
traditional choir at Obinitsa
- learning the moving history of the
Estonian national flag at the Otepää Flag Museum

- visiting the University of Tartu in
Estonia's second city
- seeing dawn come up across the still
waters of Lake Võrtsjarv from our lake-side camp
- walking the 5km long board-walk across the Riisa Bogland Trail in Soomaa National Park
and photographing insectivorous Sundew plants
- learning of Lydia Koidula, Estonia's
national poet at the museum in Pärnu devoted to
her life and work

  
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To the people of
Lithuania we
express the warmest Labai ačiū, to all in Latvia Liels paldies,
and to those in Estonia Tänan väga
for all the hospitality we received
during our stay in your countries over the last 4 months
Our 2011 travels have again added immeasurably to our
continuingly cumulative stock of knowledge of people, things and
places. We have been privileged to meet along the way some
delightfully empathetic fellow travellers with whom to share
experiences.
To these and all our other friends, we send
greetings for a
HAPPY & FULFILLING 2012
Do take this opportunity to visit the collection of webs
published during our 2011 trip to the Baltic Republics:
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In the meantime, enjoy the delightfully English
**
Hunsdon
House
**
from the Dancing Master by John Playford (1623~1686): |
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