It was by now almost 6-00pm and dusk was gathering. After a busy day, we sat and relaxed for an hour with our beers, writing today's log and reading up more on KI (see above right). Supper tonight, with rain again pouring on a thoroughly miserable evening, was tasty fried sausages with sliced mushrooms, two more of the corn cobs, avocado and tomato, followed by cheese and one of the Gala apples from the Adelaide Hills Baldasso orchards/winery. All of this was accompanied by a delicious Shiraz-Grenache rosé from the St Hallet winery in Barossa, with a dusky pink colour and subtly plummy nose and taste. It was unsurprising that rosé wine was not a popular seller, since Australians were clearly not noted for their appreciation of the concept of subtlety. Outside the rain continued to pour; we hoped that, if it rained all during the night, at least it would wash some of the sandy mud from Bruce's bodywork. Our first full day on KI had been disappointingly gloomy and wet, preventing our seeing much of KI's terrain, and only some of the wildlife (pelicans at American River, Grey Kangaroos, and Wallabies at Stokes Bay). We had our first experience of the KI unsealed roads which continuous rain had caked with slurry-mud. Of greater concern however was how quickly flooded areas had formed across both moorland and farming countryside. And the forecast did not sound promising for tomorrow.

A sunny morning at Stokes Bay Camping:  May Morning down-under, and we woke to a clearing sky with the sun just about promising to appear above the trees out of the residue of yesterday's rain cloud. At 7-00am when the alarm went off, we were still in the heavy shade of gum and pine trees. It had been a chill and very wet night, but we had slept snugly in the thick sleeping bags. Bruce's leisure battery seemed to be holding up well without a hook-up and with only the driving for charging; his internal lighting was good, and this morning we brewed tea using his whistling kettle. The sky gradually cleared and a bright, warming sun rose above the trees; after such an appallingly wet day yesterday, it was a beautiful morning. Wet waterproofs were spread out for drying, along with Paul's camera that had got a soaking last evening and was again showing signs of intermittency; but at least we now knew how to dry it thoroughly in the sun on the dashboard. The outside table and chairs were set up and it was a joy to sit outside today for breakfast in such glorious morning sunshine (see above left and right) (Photo 9 - Stokes Bay Camping). A Wicked camper (another of the hire firms) had arrived at the campsite last evening, and this morning seeing close up its garish decoration and rundown appearance, we were glad we had chosen to hire from Britz. Paul gave Bruce a wiping over to remove the worst of yesterday's accumulated sandy grime. This dried in the warm morning sunshine, and we were able to brush off most of the mud. By the time we were ready to depart, Bruce was looking reasonably respectable again.

Ideal photographic lighting conditions at Stokes Bay beach:  having packed kit, we moved Bruce around to the beach car park, as the surf rolled into the bay catching the morning sunlight (see above left). Down at the beach, the surf this morning lapped around the start-point of the pathway to the otherwise inaccessible beach (Photo 10 - Surf lapping onto beach) (see above right) and breakers crashed onto rocks in showers of spray (see left) (Photo 11 - Breakers on shore-side rocks). The passageway to the inaccessible beach through the boulders, which yesterday afternoon in gloomy weather had seemed so forbidding, was on a fine morning far more thrilling. Clambering through the labyrinth, we emerged at the far end into the gloriously deserted surroundings of Stokes Bay Beach (Photo 12 - Secret passageway through boulders). In the bright morning sunlight with the light sparkling on the sea-scape, this was photographic heaven. At the western end of the beach, ocean waves broke over rocks jutting out from the shore-line, while in the lee of the rocks the still, shallow waters lapped the white sand beach (Photo 13 - Breakers rolling in). The sun sparkled on the sea as a succession of breakers rolled in, with also just enough cloud to give a dramatic sky for our photos (Photo 14 - Dramatic cloud-scape) (see right). At one point, a light cloud veil partially obscured the direct sun giving monochrome lighting conditions for front-lit photographs of the wind-driven surf rolling in across the bay and the sunlight sparkling like diamonds on the water (Photo 15 - Sun sparkling on surf). We spent a happy half hour taking full advantage of these glorious lighting conditions and dramatic sea- and cloud-scape (see left) (Photo 16 - Monochrome lighting); between us, we shot off what promised to be some of the most effective photographs of the trip. But time was now pressing, and reluctantly we threaded our way back through the boulder passageway between the rocks to the beach area below the campsite; there we re-joined Bruce to begin today's drive westwards.

Westwards along KI north coast:  the unsurfaced road westwards over high land from Stokes Bay (click here for map of Kangaroo Island) rose across open grazing land lined with gum trees and Yakkas / Grasstrees (Xanthorrhoea) lit by the morning sun (see right) (Photo 17 - Gum trees and Yakkas). In Australia Xanthorrhoea were once colloquially called Blackboys, from the tall, spikey flowering head projecting up from the mop of grass-leaf said to resemble in silhouette an aboriginal holding a spear. In South Australia they are also commonly known as Yakkas from the local Kaurna aboriginal language. The road was lined with gum trees and young Xanthorrhoea whose grass head rosettes fanned out like fibre optic lamps. The red sandy unsealed road had dried remarkably quickly from yesterday's rain, and the surface along this stretch was reasonably smooth. We were therefore able to make good progress, stopping frequently to photograph the glorious scenery. From under shady arching gum trees we could look out over open hilly farming countryside (Photo 18 - Hilly farming countryside), or pause by picturesque pools surrounded by broken trees (see left) (Photo 19 - Pools surrounded by trees). Without the slippery slurry, the driving was so much more relaxing, and there was so much to see along this stretch of road. Farming on Kangaroo Island was however clearly an economic nightmare: we passed so many properties and areas of land for sale.

Snelling Beach:  the lane descended steeply to Snelling Beach where we pulled into the small car park-cum-camping area. A board-walk led down through flourishing shore-side vegetation to a glorious broad expanse of totally deserted strand (see right) (Photo 20 - Snelling Beach) with magnificent surf rolling in. This was another truly outstanding setting, and again we spent another fulfilling half hour photographing the sweeping breakers rolling in succession from the open ocean (Photo 21 - Ocean breakers) (see below left). Looking out over the surf, you could observe the water of the open sea bulge upwards as a fresh line of waves formed, and the breakers came thundering shore-wards, surging across the beach (Photo 22 - Breakers surging onto beach). As the surf broke across the beach, the sunlight gave a magical sparkle to the water, with the cloud-scape adding a dramatic backdrop to such magnificent photographic opportunity (Photo 23 - Dramatic cloud-scape). We clambered over rocks around the western extremity of the beach for more blue sky, silver sand and foaming waves shots (Photo 24 - Blue sky and foaming waves). So mesmerising was this magnificent surf that we could easily have devoted the entire day here, recording on photograph the sparkling surf against the backdrop of sensational cloud-scape at this peaceful beach (Photo 25 - peaceful beach). But it was now gone 12-30pm; again with regrets it was time to move on, and we walked back to the parking area from the deserted white sands and surf of Snelling Beach (Photo 26- White sands and surf).

Western River Cove:  leaving Snelling Beach car park, the unsealed road rose steeply, curving around the side of beautifully moulded hills which enclosed green valleys carved by creeks (Photo 27- Road curving up from Snelling Beach). The fertile-looking grazing land was lined with groves of gum trees and clumps of the characteristic Yakkas (Photo 28 - Road lined with Yakkas). We stopped several times on the steep hill for photographs of the trees. But the view which really dominated was that looking back towards Snelling Beach, which from this high hillside vantage point presented a perfect panorama of curving beaches, fringed with foaming surf and backed by folded green hills and farmsteads (see right) (Photo 29 - Snelling Beach nestled in valley).

The North Coast Road gained further height back to the plateau level, and 8 kms further we reached the junction of a side–lane down to Western River Cove. A sign warned of a narrow, steep and winding lane, forbidding caravans and campers longer than 5m. Tentatively and more slowly, we turned into the gum tree-lined side lane which soon became single-track (Photo 30 - Single-track unsealed lane) (see left). This really was fertile grazing country, very verdant looking. The road surface was smooth, but still moist from yesterday's rain. Hesitantly we moved ahead, and shortly further passed another Britz high-top camper (presumably one of Bruce's cousins) coming up from Western River Cove; fortunately we passed on a wider section of road. This gave us more confidence; if he could make it, so could we, and we edged forward, still slowly but with more assurety. The road began its descent towards the coast, passing a large herd of grazing cattle. We could see now the cove way down below, but there was still much height to be lost. The road steepened even further, but still the surface was smooth and firm giving no cause for concern. The single-track lane was narrow and edges broken, but there was no undue sense of exposure on the outer side. We soon dropped down to the junction at the bottom, where the surprisingly wide Western River flowed down to the coast.

We turned along the river and pulled up at the camping-area-cum-car park, which from its higher position looked down to the cove; here the Western River flowed into the sea between rocky headlands. The camping place was in a beautiful position, and it would have been an easy decision to stay here for tonight. We sat in Bruce to eat our lunch sandwiches, looking down towards where a small footbridge crossed the creek close by its outflow (Photo 31 - Western River creek footbridge); a lone fisherman stood on the bridge with rod and line. Leaving Bruce here, we walked down and crossed the rickety bridge (Photo 32- Footbridge over creek) to follow footprints leading along the sandy bank of the creek towards its outflow into the sea (see above right) (Photo 33 - Sandy footpath along creek). Footprints in the sand under the water suggested that the creek was still running high after yesterday's rain. Where the creek waters flowed into the sea at its outflow, the incoming sandy salt tide from the sea poured in to meet gently flowing freshwater from the landward creek; it was a mysterious meeting point of merging waters. Up over the sand-bar, we stood on the broad sea-shore which was confined between two high enclosing headlands. The surging tide roared as high waves rolled in from the open ocean towards the shore-line with the brisk wind whipping spray from the wave-tops (see above left) (Photo 34 - Wind whipped surf spray). The wind kept clouds scudding over and driving surf against the shore-side rocks under the dark cliffs at the far end of the beach (see right) (Photo 35 - Wind driven clouds and surf). We stood taking photos, the only other person on the beach being the lone fisherman seen earlier at the bridge. The glorious sound of crashing waves, the spectacular light sparkling on the water, the dramatically over-arching sky-scape, and the solemn solitude of this stunning setting, all combined to impress themselves on our senses (Photo 36 - Crashing surf and dramatic cloud-scape); it was a memorable moment and demanded yet more photographs.

North Coast Road to Cape Borda:  as we started back along the creek, another couple arrived; they also were in a hired Britz camper (perhaps another of Bruce's cousins), and had driven down the western side of the cove; they assured us that although steep, the unsealed road was secure. We exchanged experiences of Britz campers: they had not been supplied with tea mugs by the hire firm, and along the way had acquired a mouse passenger. We empathised from our 2007 experience in Denmark; perhaps they should recommend to Britz to include a mousetrap in their standard equipment provision, as George now carries. From the creek-side junction, we took the western exit road which passed by an isolated farm before rising steeply uphill on the far side of Western River Cove. On a steady gradient, the unsealed road gained height back up onto the high plateau (see right) (Photo 37 - Single-track unsealed road). Pausing by the roadside for photos amid the surrounding Yakkas (see above left), we could look back down to the cove way down below us. 8 kms onwards across the remote farmland and scrub, we re-joined what seemed like the 'main road', ie the North Coast Road. The better surface of this enabled us to make faster headway (click here for map of Kangaroo Island), and after a further 8 kms, we re-joined the Playford Highway and the luxury of tarmac.

Playford Highway westward to Cape Borda:  turning westwards, Bruce relished the relief to his tyres and suspension, and enjoyed the opportunity of 70 kph driving for a brief spell along to where the tarmaced road turned south becoming the West End Highway. Ahead our road towards the western extremity of KI became unsealed again We now had 30 kms of unsurfaced road along to the lighthouse at Cape Borda and, from the advice received at the Penneshaw TIC, we feared that this would be an endless corrugated, bumpy and slow road. To our surprise, the initial 25 kms were well smoothed and we made good headway at 40 kph. But then the corrugations began in earnest and, in danger of shaking Bruce into his component parts, we bumped and slithered along in second gear at 20 kph for the final 5 kms. The corrugations along this last section of the road leading to Cape Borda were excruciatingly bumpy. At last we passed the sign for Harvey's Return, where tonight's planned camping area was, along with the lighthouse-keepers' Cemetery. It was however another 3 kms of bone-shaking corrugations before we finally pulled into the car park by the lighthouse; we were thankful to be still all in one piece.

Cape Borda was another of the geographical features named by Nicolas Baudin during his 1803 mapping expedition to KI (See map of Cape Borda). The name commemorated the 18th century French mariner, engineer and mathematician Jean-Charles de Borda (1733~99) who, among his many achievements, devised the standard metre as basis of the metric system. We walked over towards the stumpy, square lighthouse (Photo 38 - Cape Borda lighthouse) (see left and right) set on an open-topped hillock amid limestone outcrops some distance from the western cliff-edge. A sign by a nearby hut said there were tours of the lighthouse at 3-15 and 4-00pm, and it was now 3-00pm. In anticipation, we walked up onto the hillock to photograph the lighthouse while we waited. We followed signs along a rocky path through the eucalyptus scrub which covered the entire cliff-top, down towards the cliff edge. Curiously eroded limestone outcrops were exposed along the cliff-top path, which were also visible under the dense covering of scrub (see below right). The path ended at a look-out perched at the cliff edge above a sheer 100m drop down to a boiling maelstrom of white, foaming sea, which surged around the rocky foot of the Cape Borda cliffs (Photo 39 - Cape Borda cliffs). The line of cliffs extended away into the distance in both directions.

Cape Borda lighthouse:  having explored the cliff-tops, we returned up the path through the scrub, taking photos of eucalyptus fruits (Photo 40 - Eucalyptus fruit) (see left), colloquially called 'gum nuts'. As we reached the lighthouse, we heard voices: the 4-00pm tour was just beginning, and the guide called over to us to join them. The anticipated tour of the lighthouse was however a total anti-climax: the guide, a local farmer, stood in the ground-floor room of the square lighthouse and gave us his lengthy and bigoted views of SA colonisation, but only the briefest history of the Cape Borda lighthouse and the seas around KI. The lighthouse was built in this isolated position at the westernmost tip of Kangaoo Island in 1858, to guide ships travelling along the Roaring Forties trade route heading into the Investigator Strait towards Port Adelaide. Investigator Strait, the sea passage separating the Yorke Peninsula on the SA mainland from Kangaroo Island, was named by Matthew Flinders after his ship HMS Investigator on his 1801~02 voyage of discovery. The Cape Borda lighthouse is the third oldest remaining and only square stone lighthouse in South Australia. Originally there was no road linking Cape Borda to the rest of Kangaroo Island, and all supplies for the lighthouse had to be hauled up from ships every three months via a steep cableway at the nearby cove of Harvey's Return. The rest of the tour group dogmatically joined in bemoaning the state of the Australian economy, and its over-dependence on Chinese trade in Australian mineral resources. The guide dismissed our request to see the light with a curt response of No, not possible, and that was it for the supposed 'lighthouse tour'. And to add insult to injury, he tried charging us $26 each for the privilege; Paul equally curtly demanded a seniors' concession, and we paid $21 for what had been a disappointing visit.

Harveys Return campsite in a grove of gum trees:  it was by now 5-00pm and, with the sun dipping towards the horizon and casting long shadows in the golden light, we bumped back along the corrugated dirt road to find the Harveys Return camping area (see right). Just beyond the Lighthouse Keepers' Cemetery, we turned into a narrow side-lane, and among a forest grove of gum trees and Yakkas found the small, cleared space of the Harveys Return camping area. It was a totally delightful and isolated spot and, best of all, we had it to ourselves.

Having settled Bruce in among the gum trees (see above left) (Photo 41 - Harveys Return Camping), we set off following signs to walk down to the Harveys Return cliff-top. We found the path leading from the clearing down to the Harveys Return landing stage, where deliveries of supplies for the isolated lighthouse had once been hauled up from ships below. The roadway from Kingscote had only been constructed through the scrubland in 1929. The rocky path led steeply down through the woods to the site of the winding gear which had once hauled supplies up a railed cableway from the landing stage some 300 feet below. A very steep path led down to the shore far below us, but the light was now failing, with the last golden light of the setting sun just catching the wooded cliff-top opposite (see right). We returned up the path through the forest, and just close to the camping area, we encountered the highlight of the afternoon: Sheila spotted a pair of Echidnas grubbing around among the tree debris on the forest floor by the path. As we approached, they both curled up into spiky balls, digging themselves into hollows in the soft earth (see left) (Photo 42 - Echidna). We were able to get close-up photographs, but only occasionally did they show their little elongated snouts. This was a wonderfully opportunistic sighting of these rare monotreme egg-laying mammals; a real treasure of a find, and suitable climax to a memorable day.

Back over at Bruce, we settled in as darkness fell. No other campers had arrived, and we had this delightful forest grove all to ourselves. It was however too cool this evening to sit outside, and we settled in to brew tea. Supper tonight was delicious pork slices with chopped mushrooms and oregano, with over-ripe avocado and corn cobs. This was accompanied by bottles of Paullets Riesling and Pike's Sangiovese. Our wine purchases in Clare Valley had provided us with some real gems to drink during our camping trip to Kangaroo Island. Today had been memorably extraordinary: the weather had been exceptional, and we had been privileged to enjoy so many wonderful experiences to treasure. Nightfall in our forest clearing brought total and impenetrable darkness, and with the absence of any light-pollution, the clearest of starry skies ever experienced. It was an indescribably unbelievable sensation peering up through the canopy of Eucalyptus branches, and seeing the black orbit of the heavens ablaze with a myriad of bright stars. It was a phenomenal climax to an astonishingly wonderful day.

Morning in camp at Harveys Return:  when we first woke, the dawning sun silhouetted the trees of the campsite forest grove (see above right) (Photo 43 - Dawning sun). But this initial promise of a fine day was very soon was enveloped in gathering cloud; it looked as if today would not be as bright as yesterday. Despite the air being quite cool and misty-moisty, we eat breakfast outside (Photo 44 - Breakfast at Harveys Return) and wrote yesterday's log at a picnic table (Photo 45 - Log-writing), as gradually the sky cleared from the west, re-raising hopes of another sunny day. The morning sunlight lit the gum trees and Yakkas (Photo 46 - Gum trees and Yakkas), emphasising what a glorious spot Harveys Return truly was. We really could not have asked for a finer camping spot, which must rank among the most memorable camping experiences ever (see above left). By the time we were ready to depart, the sky was clear blue, but still with hints of cloud. Although we saw no Kangaroos in the early dawn this morning, the air was filled with bird song echoing around the woods. Most fascinating was the mellifluous warbling sound which curiously seemed to come from the Australian Magpies (see right); this sweetest of sounds from such an ungainly-looking bird seemed utterly incongruous.

South-west to Flinders Chase National Park:  setting off at 10-30am, we began the return drive along the dreaded dirt road corrugations (click here for map of Kangaroo Island). It took 15 minutes to advance slowly along the worst part, then on reaching the section already scraped, we were able to maintain a steady 40 kph, reaching the tarmac within 25 minutes. During the drive, we saw two large, black and buff-coloured, eagle-shaped birds of prey, and a flock of Pied Currawongs flying over. The two days of driving on unsealed roads had not only caked Bruce with a layer of sandy mud and dust, it had also burned three quarters of our full tank of fuel; we badly needed a fill-up. Once onto the tarmaced surface of the West End Highway, it immediately became clear why the unsealed roads consumed so much fuel: you had to keep your foot on the throttle constantly to maintain momentum. Once onto smooth tarmac, you realised how much you tended to coast. From our map, Sheila located a petrol station at the exclusive private resort of KI Wilderness Retreat, and we pulled in. There was a fuel pump, but unleaded fuel was a horrifying $1.85/litre, 34 cents/litre more expensive than we had paid at Cape Jervis, and 50 cents more expensive than Adelaide prices! They literally had us over a barrel, and with ill-gracious gratitude we handed over our $50 for a fill-up to get us back to Penneshaw.

Just west from here, we headed for the Flinders Chase National Park Visitor Centre. During the drive over, the sky had darkened; it looked as if the best we could hope for today would be showery weather. Just before the National Park Visitor Centre, we passed a flock of Cape Barren Geese grazing in a paddock by the roadside (Photo 47 - Cape Barren Geese) (see above left). As we stopped to photograph them, we were drenched by a sudden downpour. These bulky Cape Barren Geese with uniformly grey plumage are now firmly established at the Rocky River area of Flinders Chase, migrating here seasonally for nesting and rearing of young during winter. The females emitted a pig-like grunting sound (hence the alternative name of Pig Geese), and the males seemed aggressive, attacking other geese. Like most geese they were singularly unattractive!

South to Cape du Couedic:  we stopped at the Visitor Centre to pay our $9 each National Park entry fee, and to make enquires about local walks. Our original plan had been to camp at the Western KI Caravan Park just along the South Coast Road; this would have been expensive but did have the advantage of power supplies for charging cameras. The National Park Visitor Centre however also had a straightforward camping area nearby, Rocky River Campground; although not having any power, it seemed more reasonably priced and we should return here to camp later.

We turned off onto the narrow, winding, but at least tarmaced lane leading down to Cape du Couedic (click here for map of Kangaroo Island). The road wound through endless mallee scrub bushland (Photo 48 - Mallee scrub bushland) (see right above), dotted with classic 'black boy' Yakkas (see left), and from a look-out high on Bunker Hill, the extent of damage caused by the 2007 bush fire was still evident. The lane undulated across the Flinders Chase scrub-covered terrain (see right) ending by the lighthouse at Cape du Couedic. The heavy cloud of earlier had now cleared and sun broken through, giving a lovely soft light for photography. We had ambitious (perhaps over-ambitious) plans for today: the obvious visits were to Admirals Arch here at Cape du Couedic to see the seals, and the nearby geological curiosity of Remarkable Rocks; we also hoped to follow the Platypus Water-holes Walk from the National Park Visitor Centre, and to visit the Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary to see Koalas in the wild. With the weather now looking promising down here at the coast with clearing blue sky and bright sun, our first priority would be the cliff walk here at Cape du Couedic down to Admirals Arch, to see the New Zealand Fur Seals.

Cape du Couedic:  parking by the lighthouse, we walked down towards the cape (click here for map of Kangaroo Island) which had been named by Nicolas Baudin during his 1803 expedition in memory of Charles Louis du Couëdic, the Seigneur de Kergoualer (1740~80), a French naval officer. To conserve the cliff-top paths and flora from erosion by the 1000s of visitors who tread these paths, a broad board-walk had been constructed, zigzagging down to the cliff-tops overlooking the narrow channel of sea which surged between the SW tip of Kangaroo Island and the tiny Casuarina Islets 500m offshore. The islets were named by Baudin after one of the expedition's ships the Casuarina. Never before had we witnessed such ferociously surging seas (see left) (Photo 49 - Surging sea): huge breakers swelled in mid-channel and rolled in towards the craggy coastline of both KI and the offshore islets, crashing into a foaming maelstrom along the rocks (see right) (Photo 50 - Foaming surf). Today generally the sea was calm; there was no stormy wind, and the sun was bright. But even in these placid conditions, the sea running through this narrow channel was both fearsome and fascinating.

As we walked down the board-walk towards the cliff-tops, closer views of the rocky shore-line pounded by the foaming sea opened up before us. Set against a dramatic sky-scape and lit by bright sun (Photo 51 - Casuarina islets), the surging sea generated endless potential for photography. To the NW the seemingly endless coastline, with its flat, shelving rocks sloping down to the seething waterline, was wreathed in spray from the surf which crashed onto the shore (Photo 52 - NW from Cape Couedic) (see left). Looking across the narrow straights which separated the KI southern shoreline from the larger and closer of the Casuarina Islets, enormous waves broke with towering showers of spray; below us along the rocky shore of Cape du Couedic, endless series of seething waves rose in a foaming mass to crash onto the rocks also with showers of spray (Photo 53 - Surf spray). It was all totally exhilarating, but at the same time hellishly terrifying. Any vessel which unwittingly strayed anywhere near this dreadful channel would inevitably and inescapably be dashed onto the rocks of either KI or the offshore islets. Mesmerised by the dreadful foaming sea, we took endless photos from Cape Couedic looking along the NW coast, and out towards the offshore islets with the foreshore of Kangaroo Island's SW tip of below us.

Admirals Arch and the New Zealand Fur Seals:  from the cliff-top, the board-walk continued down steps around the corner of the cliffs, giving yet more intimately closer overview of the incoming surging waves, before they crashed in foaming spray onto the rocks immediately below us. But all of this was just a foretaste; the best was yet to come. We had already seen distant views of seals basking on the shore-side rocks (Photo 54 - seals basking on rocks) (see above right). But now as we rounded the corner of the cliffs on the board-walk steps, there down below us, basking in the sunshine on the wave-splashed flat rocks, were dozens of New Zealand Fur Seals (Photo 55 - New Zealand Fur Seal) (see left). Others were frolicking in a rock pool atop the flat rocks, seeming to take delight in the constant showering wash-over as crashing waves splashed around them. It was all totally surrealistic.

But the thrills were still not yet over. Rounding a further corner, and descending the board-walk steps to a viewing platform, there ahead was the over-hanging Admirals Arch, carved by wind and wave erosion, a natural rock-bridge arching over flat slabs onto which waves from the far side of the straits crashed (see right) (Photo 56 - Admirals Arch). Along the distant coast-line away to the north-west, the cliffs were masked by spray raised from surf crashing onto shore-side rocks. And down on the slabs beneath the arch's overhang, yet more seals lay basking, playfully sparring with each other or swimming in the foaming shallows. And to complete the picture, the air under the confined space of the cavern created by the huge overhanging natural arch was rank with the foul, fetid smell presumably of seal excrement. The underside of the over-arching rock-bridge was lined with huge rocky accretions of stalactites (Photo 57 - Stalactite accretions). The deafening sound of waves crashing beyond the arch, and the sight of seals basking and seeming almost to pose for visitors' cameras, all combined to distract from any awareness of the fetid atmosphere.

Cape du Couedic lighthouse:  returning to Bruce, we drove up for photographs of the Cape du Couedic lighthouse (see above left) (Photo 59 - Cape du Couedic lighthouse), built in 1909 after the loss of several merchantmen in the treacherous seas around the cape. Just up the lane, a side road branched off eastwards following the line of the coast. In the distance around the cliff-tops on the far side of a deep bay, this prominent outcrop of rocks was visible crowning a headland overlooking the coast and glowing golden in the afternoon sunlight. We paused at a look-out to photograph the magnificent sweep of beach far below us at the foot of high cliffs, with white foam of waves washing ashore, and above this the prominence of Remarkable Rocks (see left).

Geological phenomenon of Remarkable Rocks:  at the lane's end, we parked and walked along another conservational board-walk towards the golden rocky dome crowned with enormous granite boulders which were eroded into curious shapes (Photo 60 - Domed prominence of Remarkable Rocks). Information panels explained the geological formation of this volcanic intrusion of granite, with the original sedimentary surface rocks eroded away over aeons to leave the exposed dome-shaped granite outcrop. The huge surface layer of granite fragmented over time and was weathered and sculpted into the separate mammoth blocks seen today (Photo 61 - Remarkable Rocks eroded granite blocks) (see below left). At the end of the board-walk, we clambered up onto the domed outcrop, the crystalline granite surface giving secure foot-hold in dry weather; in wet weather it would have been treacherously slippery. It was possible to scramble around and between the massive boulders, in order to photograph their fantastically eroded shapes (Photo 62 - Eroded granite), some of which resembled Henry Moore sculptures (see right). With their golden lichen coating, the rocks glowed in the afternoon sunlight, and to the NW along the cliff-line clouds of spray rose from the beach seen earlier from the look-out point.

Flinders Chase Rocky River Camping:  it was by now gone 4-00pm, and we still had hopes of tackling the Platypus Walk this afternoon before dusk. As we drove back along the lane to the road leading in 15 kms to the Flinders Chase National Park Visitor Centre (click here for map of Kangaroo Island), we saw two more Echidnas: one stayed on gravel by the roadside, but the other Echidna shuffled purposefully across the road in front of us and disappeared into the mallee scrub (see below right). They moved slowly giving us time to stop, and we now took extra care in case any larger and faster-moving creatures such as Wallabies or Kangaroos emerged from the scrub to hop in front of us.

Back at the Flinders Chase Visitor Centre, we inspected the Rocky River campsite: facilities seemed fine with WCs, modern wash-ups, showers with hot water, fresh water supplies, and barbecues, but remote from the camping area. We went down to the Visitor Centre to check that the water was fit for drinking, and bought bottles of beer for later. But it was by now 5-00pm; the sun was beginning to set, and it would be dark in an hour. There was no time left this afternoon for the Platypus Walk, and we were both tired. The campsite was virtually deserted at this time of year, and we settled Bruce into one of the pitches. We had hoped that the original charge of water would last out, but on trying to fill the kettle, it was clear that the fresh water tank was almost empty. We had therefore to pack away again in order to drive Bruce around to the facilities block for a refill. But at least this did not entail collapsing his roof as with George. Back to our pitch, we finally were able to settle in fully, and cracked a beer.

Supper tonight was sliced kangaroo steak fried and simmered in its own gravy with chopped mushroom, another delicious supper in Bruce, with a bottle of Eldridge Sangiovese Rosé from Clare Valley. Darkness fell remarkably quickly, and by soon after 6-00pm it was pitch black. The evening became overcast and with rain showers. The sky cleared later to give some stars, but not as startlingly bright as last night. At one point on opening the slider, we could see the outline of a small animal. At first we thought it was a Wallaby, but shining the torch showed it to be a Brushtail Possum, a large, furry and cuddly-looking, nocturnal, semi-arboreal marsupial with pink ears and large round eyes; indifferent to the light, he wandered off into the scrub.

A wet morning at Rocky River, Flinders Chase National Park:  when we first woke at 7-00am, the sky seemed heavily overcast; we feared another miserable day after last night's rain. In fact by the time we emerged, the morning sun was just breaking through the overnight cloud and the sky clearing, and by breakfast the sun was shining brightly. The air however was autumnally chill. We had eaten our way through our food stocks, and should have to shop later at Penneshaw for tonight's supper and tomorrow's breakfast. Rocky River Campground was well laid out with tarmac driveways, but the separate gravel pitches in each enclosure were surrounded by natural scrub (see left). This morning the air was again filled with the sound of bird song, particularly the melodious fluty warbling of the Australian Magpie (Cracticus tibicen, appropriately from the Latin for flute-player), one of Australia's most vociferous songbirds with a remarkably mellifluous repertoire of calls, compared with the harsh squawk of unrelated British Magpies.

The clear sky of earlier did not last: by the time we were packed to leave, serious cloud had gathered. As we parked by the Visitor Centre to pack day sacs for the Platypus Water-holes Walk, a thoroughly soaking drizzle was pouring. We kitted up fully with waterproofs, and while waiting at the Visitor Centre for the rain to ease, we sampled the pelts of fauna found in the National Park: the skins of a Goanna, a Kangaroo, Tammar Wallaby, and the spiny quills of an Echidna. The rain eased showing no signs of stopping, but we set off on the 4.5 kms circular walk.

Platypus Water-holes Walk, Flinders Chase:  from the rear of the Visitor Centre, the path led to an information shelter with panels about wildlife to be seen at Flinders Chase (See map of Platypus Water-holes Walk). From here the route crossed the open turf-land of Black Swamp. The close-cropped turf was covered with the droppings of Kangaroos and the Cape Barren Geese which were grazing in flocks around us (see above right). Shortly after the start, we passed a Tammar Wallaby grazing near to the path (see left) (Photo 63 - Tammar Wallaby). He was clearly aware of our presence, but tolerated our approaching closely for photographs. Finally he had enough and hopped away. The Cape Barren Geese continued grazing, letting out the occasional grunting as we passed. Beyond the open turf-land, the path meandered through a more densely wooded area of gum trees and Yakkas (see right). There was still much remaining damage from a recent bush-fire, but the vegetation was re-asserting itself among charred stumps of fire-damaged trees. The drizzle continued as we walked on through the bush; this was a truly delightful path, even in poor weather.

After 2 kms, we reached Black Swamp and the junction of the Platypus Water-holes circular walk around the swampy area of the Rocky River. Information panels warned visitors to keep as quiet as possible and to move slowly; but even then the chances of seeing the rare Platypus were minimal, as the warden at the Visitor Centre had advised yesterday. The pathway advanced through denser scrubland leading to a viewing platform looking over the swampy river (see left) (Photo 64 - Platypus Water-holes Walk, Rocky River). Rain was falling more heavily now with raindrops splashing from overhanging vegetation into the river. Eagerly we scoured the muddy river banks where a number of possible burrow-holes were visible, but the only disturbance of the water was not from a Platypus but falling rain drops. We stood silently and patiently watching for any signs of life, but Platypus were there none. Continuing around the circuit, hoping the continuing dripping rain would encourage Platypus to emerge from their burrows, we crossed the river on a footbridge. But despite our peering expectantly at the muddy banks, there were still no Platypus sightings. Further around, the path again crossed the river at a delightful spot, despite the dull light and dripping drizzle. Last chance, but regrettably still no Platypus.

On the return leg through the forest, we watched a tiny, beautiful bird flitting around and settling on a branch, giving us a clear view: an appropriately named Australian Scarlet Robin (Petroica boodang), black bodied with white wing-bars and white head patch, and a magnificently prominent vermilion shirt. Back at the circuit's start point, we turned back along the meandering path through the forest; here new generations of vegetation growth flourished amid the burnt stems and stumps from recent bush-fires. As we emerged onto the more open heath-land, two Kangaroos were grazing in the distance. We edged across towards them as quietly as possible, and getting good photos as we came closer. They tolerated our presence and our clicking cameras for a while, then decided enough was enough; they bounded off towards cover (see above right) (Photo 65 - Bounding Kangaroo). But we had managed to get good photos of their peculiar bounding gait. All around us, Cape Barren Geese grazed and grunted, seemingly indifferent to our presence. Among the trees at Black Swamp, we found specimens of Kangaroo Apple with its garishly purple flowers (see left) and its yellow fruit.

A short distance further we spotted another Tammar Wallaby contentedly grazing among small, bushy tufts of vegetation (see right) (Photo 66 - Tammar Wallaby). Again we were able to creep up close to him for photos before he hopped away. Yesterday we had seen several Echidnas and knew what to look out for. Suddenly we spotted what evidently seemed an Echidna with its light buff spiny quills standing out clearly. But as we approached, it became less certain: there were a number of small, tufted clumps of grassy plant bases, and closer examination showed that what in our enthusiasm had appeared to be an Echidna turned out to be purely vegetable matter! Wading through yet more geese, we returned to the information shelter at the start of the path, and walked back to Bruce. Although not having been rewarded with platypus sightings, it had been a worthwhile walk enabling us to capture a number of close-up wild-life photos. And despite the thinning cloud, the rain now started again as we prepared to leave Flinders Chase.

Koala Walk at Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary:  beyond the junction with West End Highway (click here for map of Kangaroo Island), we passed the Western KI Caravan Park and soon after pulled into the Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary. This huge area of protected mallee scrub is privately owned, but just close to the entrance, two avenues of tall gum trees are open to the public for a nominal entrance fee of $2.50 to the Koala Walk. Koalas are arboreal, herbivorous marsupials, related to Wombats; in the wild, they sleep nestled high in the forked branches of Eucalyptus trees, or sit munching their leaves, getting through 2 kgs of eucalyptus leaves per day which make up most of their diet. Other wild-life such as Kangaroos, Wallabies and Echidnas, as well as a variety of bird-life can be seen in the grassland near to the gum trees.

We parked and walked over to the avenues of trees, leaving our $5 at the entrance hut. There were few other folk about and the drizzle persisted. We spoke with a couple who were visiting from NSW and who gave us directions to where they had seen Koalas sleeping in the tree branches; they pointed out a pair of Koalas high in the tree-tops (Photo 67 - Pair of Koalas). At that height however, it was impossible to make out any details; all we could see was a pair furry bundles squatting on the Eucalyptus branches. We wondered how they did not fall from the tree branches when asleep! Further along however by a flag-marker, we spotted a Koala clearly visible just 10 feet above the ground. He looked a very sturdy, stocky little creatures with sharp claws on his little 'hands', a large black, leathery-looking nose, fluffy ears, and teddy bear eyes, nestled in the fork of Eucalyptus branches (see above left) (Photo 68 - Koala nestled in Eucalyptus branches). Peering up at him, we took a number of photos, although Paul's camera battery was now running low without mains power for charging these last 3 days. We had seen conserved Koalas at Cleland Wildlife Park near to Adelaide, but this was the first we had seen one reasonably close-up in the wild. The curious creature resembled a stocky, little old man sitting with his arms resting on his knees and his head nodding in sleep (see above right) (Photo 69 - Sleeping Koala); at one point Sheila even saw him yawn. He remained completely indifferent to our attention and the clicking of our cameras below his perch on the tree branch. We walked along the rest of the gum tree avenue with our heads craned upwards, and further along, spotted two more Koalas sat sleeping side by side; but being on a high branch, we could make out no detail.

On the walk back, other wildlife attracted our attention: a flock of Galahs flitted around the open space beyond the trees, close enough to be photographed as they pecked around on the grass (see above left). By the entrance, we had been able to approach and photograph a Tammar Wallaby who was sheltering from the rain under a eucalyptus bush (see above right) (Photo 70 - Tammar Wallaby). Another KI Grey Kangaroo was now grazing and hopping around the open space, and we followed him along, going in close to get some of the best Kanga-pics yet. We were able to photograph him closely as he reached up to browse Eucalyptus leaves from the trees (Photo 71 - Grey Kangaroo browsing Eucalyptus). He sat upright holding leaves in his little front paws to nibble, and moved forward with that curious rocking gait using forearms and tail (Photo 72 - Kangaroo's rocking gait) (see below left). Then he would launch himself into full flight, hopping and bounding away across the field like the silhouette on the Qantas logo (see above left) (Photo 73 - Bounding Kangaroo). We followed him the length of the field as he paused again by a pile of straw. He almost posed for us as we photographed him at very close range, as he picked up 'handfuls' of straw to nibble (Photo 74 - Kangaroo nibbling straw). Again he hopped and bounded further and we followed; he almost seemed as curious of us as we were of him, allowing us to come within hands reach (Photo 75 - Kangaroo close up). If we had held out food, he would probably have taken it from our hands. We walked along the second avenue, but could find no further Koalas in the trees. But there hopping around among logs we came close to other Kangaroos, and were able to photograph these at close range (see right) (Photo 76 - Grey Kangaroo). But time was now pressing: it was 3-00pm, and we had a two hour drive to get back to Penneshaw to shop for food and complete jobs while there was still daylight. We also had a couple of other planned visits on the way. As we drove from the car park passing another group of 4 Kangaroos standing grazing in the field, the rain started again.

South Coast Road to Vivonne Bay:  we drove on for some 30 kms, making good progress along the fast, tarmaced South Coast Road through the mallee scrub and gum trees (click here for map of Kangaroo Island). Reaching Vivonne Bay, (also named by the 1803 Baudin expedition after Catherine de Vivonne, Marquise de Rambouillet, a 17th century member of the French nobility), we turned off along 3 kms of bumpy dirt road down to the bay and jetty. In fine weather Vivonne Bay would have been a magnificent 5 kms wide span of golden sand beach, but today with heavily overcast sky and poor light, and with our limited time, it scarcely seemed worth stopping. And we had in fact seen more dramatic rocky coastlines and seascapes over the last 2 days to photograph in much better lighting conditions. We therefore returned to the main road and drove on eastwards, to pause briefly and investigate an area of sand dunes labelled on the map as Little Sahara. But the approach dirt lane was deeply rutted and pitted, and signs promoting quad bikes and paint-balling also suggested sordid commercial exploitation; we left it and continued our journey.

Return to Penneshaw:  despite being wary of wild-life on the road in the gloomy light of a dull late afternoon, we made good speed along the mainly straight South Coast Road, passing the turning for Seal Bay. We cut through on a minor but tarmaced road past an airstrip to reach the main road to American River and Penneshaw. Several kms of good progress along a straight road brought us back to the point where last Saturday we had turned off to the honey farm. As we passed the turning for American River and rounded Pelican Lagoon and Prospect Hill, the sky was at last beginning to brighten, and we completed the last few kms back to Penneshaw. After a brisk drive along the South Coast Road down the length of the island, we reached Penneshaw on target at 5-00pm. But as we drove into town, it seemed a different world we were re-entering from the wild, deserted mallee scrubland we had left earlier.

Final night on Kangaroo Island at KI Shores Camping:  down into the town, we bought a couple of bottles of beer at the bottle shop, and stopped at the IGA supermarket for supper and breakfast provisions. Round to the campsite, we booked in now at just $27/night with power supply, with winter season prices having begun at start of May; all camera batteries and phones needed charging. Fortunately the same pitch used last weekend was free close to the stand-pipe and, with the light failing fast, gave Bruce a good cleaning off. We finally hosed him down hoping that in the light of morning we should not discover missed streaks. We also filled his fresh water tank ready for his return. We settled into our pitch, connected Bruce's power, and by 6-00pm it was pitch dark with stars beginning to appear. Supper tonight required careful use of Bruce's limited capacity pans: chorizo sausage chopped to make meat-balls with onion, peppers and mushrooms in tomato sauce with oregano served with spaghetti. We settled in for our final night in Bruce, after another memorable day of KI wild-life in spite of the disappointing weather. It was another chill and miserable night.

Final morning at Penneshaw:  the alarm was set for 6-40am to allow time for the log to be completed; we also had much to do this morning to be down at the ferry port in time for the 10-30 sailing. But at least now we had power for his electric kettle for our final morning brew in Bruce. The early sky gave mixed promises for today's weather: dramatic cloudy sky with a hint of sun at first light. We eat our last breakfast sat at Bruce's table (see above right). We systematically gathered together our belongings, and having washed up, we packed away Bruce's equipment. It had to be admitted that Britz had provided not only an almost new vehicle, but also one practicably laid out and thoughtfully equipped. Having checked off all the packing of Bruce's kit and separated off our food and kit, we left Penneshaw Camping and drove down to the ferry dock.

Re-crossing by ferry to Cape Jervis:  other vehicles were gathering for the 10-30 crossing, and Bruce parked in the queuing lane while we checked in. Other cars seemed to be driving aboard the waiting ferry, so we also edged forward down towards the ramp. A brusque voice called after us, what did we think we were doing moving down before instructed? Paul was learning Australian directness, and responded in like manner. Shortly after, another more helpful crew member called us forward and directed us to back aboard (Photo 77 - Backing aboard ferry) (see above left). After 5 days driving experience in Bruce, this presented no problems, other than that we were trapped at the very rear of the vehicle deck, and should therefore be one of the last ashore at Cape Jervis when we were anxious to start the drive back to Adelaide. But Bruce was settled into his allotted space and Paul went aloft to join Sheila who had walked aboard. We were anxious about time since we had a drive of at least 2 hours back to Adelaide; we then needed to unload our kit at Lucy's apartment and return Bruce to Britz near the airport, all before closing time at 3-30pm. It was going to be a tight schedule.

The ferry pulled away from Penneshaw dock at 10-30am (see above right), and we took our farewell photos of Kangaroo Island as Penneshaw and the coastline soon receded into the distance (Photo 78 - Ferry departing Kangaroo Island) (see left and right above). The weather was still uncertain with heavily overcast sky, and a shower over KI produced a rainbow to enliven our photos. During the crossing, we got into conversation with other passengers and with one particularly chatty elderly gent from Murray Bridge who made regular crossings to KI. The crossing of Backstairs Passage threatened to be delayed as the ferry made a sweeping detour to allow a large container-ship to pass before us (see above left), but we resumed course and made good headway across Backstairs Passage towards Cape Jervis. Heavy, squally rain-clouds obscured the outline of the mainland ahead of us (see right), and with 11-15 approaching, we eat an early sandwich lunch as the ferry docked at Cape Jervis (see below left).

Return from Cape Jervis up through Fleuieu Peninsula to Adelaide:  Paul hurried down to Bruce, anxious to begin the drive, waiting for other vehicles to clear the ramp before he could drive ashore (Photo 79 - Cape Jervis). Picking up Sheila from the quayside, we joined the line of vehicles heading up the road from the dock. Frustratingly slow drivers ahead of us threatened to cause further delays; we managed to pass these, but the narrow, winding road for the first 20 kms kept our speed down to 80kph. Paul kept an eye on Bruce's fuel gauge since we were down to our last quarter, but even at the small town of Yankalilla, we passed no filing stations. The weather continued showery, potentially spraying road grime up onto Bruce's freshly cleaned bodywork.

Once beyond the hills we were able to pick up speed, and regular overtaking lanes enabled us to get past slower trucks. Within an hour we reached Nuarlunga, and soon after pulled into a petrol station to fill Bruce with fuel at $1.35/litre, exactly 50 cents cheaper than we had to pay on KI. Traffic was very heavy on the duel carriageway, a total culture shock after KI's peaceful roads. Once beyond the Expressway however, traffic thinned and we were able to make better headway, dropping steeply downhill towards the outskirts of the city. It seemed to take longer than ever driving through the Adelaide suburbs, with all the interchange traffic lights causing more frustrating delays. After a tense navigational error, we regained our route along Anzac Highway and turned into South Terrace, finally parking outside our daughter's apartment at 1-30pm, having achieved the drive in exactly 2 hours.

Farewell to Bruce:  all our kit was quickly unloaded and Bruce's lockers double-checked. Just to be sure we incurred no penalties on returning the camper, Paul gave him another quick wipe over to remove any residual grime, and at 1-55 we set off for the airport. Traffic was now lighter early afternoon, and we pulled into Britz's forecourt at 2-25, well within a safe time margin before their closing time. We had made it, but it had been a tense drive up from Cape Jervis. We said our farewells and thanks to Bruce who had been such an admirably amenable travelling companion (Photo 80 - Farewll to Bruce) (see right), and returned his keys to the same sour-faced girl who went out to inspect him. Returning satisfied (we should hope so after two cleanings!), she reimbursed our credit card with the full deposit. At the bus stop immediately outside, we caught one of the regular buses from Glenelg into the city and got off right outside the Metro Information Centre for details of public transport routes for our next days of travelling around the environs of Adelaide.

Despite the mixed weather, our 5 days on KI had been an extraordinarily memorable venture: Bruce had been a loyal and long-suffering travelling companion especially on the KI dirt roads, the camping had been second to none, and to top it all we had witnessed a wealth of KI wild-life. It truly had been a worthwhile trip, with many recollections and photographs to savour.

Our concluding travels around Adelaide:  during our concluding week in and around Adelaide, we caught the local train out to Port Adelaide to explore the conserved remains of the former dockland area and the modern container Outer Port. Port Adelaide now is home to two first class museums, the National Railway Museum and Maritime Museum Museum where we learned much about the development of railways in South Australia and the part played by the port in the arrival of immigrants. We enjoyed an excellent day of wine tasting in the vineyards of McLaren Vale, and at Goolwa learned about the importance of river trade between NSW and South Australia along the Murray River. We also visited the spectacular mouth of the Murray River where it discharges into the Southern Ocean. Our final day in South Australia was spent exploring the St Kilda mangrove swamps, but all of this will be detailed in the next edition.

Next edition to be published quite soon

Sheila and Paul

Published:  20 June 2021

		This week's Photo Gallery
		Top of News Page
		Return to Index Page

Denmark 2019 Baltics 2018 Iceland 2017 Sweden 2016 Finland 2115 Norway 2014 Sweden 2013 Finland 2012 Baltic States 2011 Poland 2010 Czech Republic 2009 Sardinia~Corsica 2009 Slovakia 2008 Croatia 2008 Denmark 2007 Sicily 2007 Alsace 2006 Greece 2006 Hungary 2005 Pyrenees 2005 Slovenia 2004 Greece 2004 Home Page Site Plan Who we are Publications